洗完头发到底是用吹风机吹干还是让头发自然干?相信这个问题让很多人纠结不已。不过,剑桥博士的最新研究给出了答案。
目前担任英国GHD直发器公司的技术总监、剑桥大学微电子学博士蒂姆·摩尔(Tim Moore)用专业的科学方法为你揭秘关于干发的惊天秘籍~
My own hairline may be receding, but I can promise you this: a perfect blow dry is no accident. However, few people know there’s a scientifically proven technique which will give you the ultimate finish.
我本人的发际线也许正在后退,但我能向你保证:完美的吹发方式能让你万无一失。然而却很少有人知道,有一种从科学上证实有效的方法能让你达到最终的完美效果。
Indeed, it’s my job as a scientist to research how washing and styling can help, or harm, human hair — and from examining hair at the deepest cellular level, I’ve uncovered the secrets of attaining the perfect do.
实际上,我的工作就是作为一名科学工作者研究如何洗头和做造型能够对人的头发有利或有害,从深入细胞层次的头发检验中,我揭开了如何达到完美效果的秘密。
For example, did you know that leaving your hair to dry naturally is more damaging than blow-drying it? Or that going to bed with damp hair could be giving you split ends? So here’s my guide to the perfect way to dry your hair …
比如,你是否知道让头发自然晾干比吹干更损伤发质?头发未干就睡觉可能会导致发尾分叉?那么,以下就是我的完美干发秘诀…
▲剑桥学者蒂姆·摩尔博士揭秘干发和做造型的最佳方式
BUILDING BLOCKS
头发的基本知识
Before you learn how to do the perfect blow dry, you need to understand some of the science behind your hair’s structure.
在学习如何进行完美吹发之前,你需要了解一些头发结构背后的科学知识。
Hair is made from the protein keratin, the same substance as nails, feathers and claws. It’s a complicated structure; each shaft is like a rope within a rope.
头发的主要组成成分是角蛋白,它和指甲、羽毛、爪子的成分相同。它的结构比较复杂,每根头发都像是一层裹着一层的绳子。
There’s a protective outer layer known as the cuticle, which is calcified keratin, making it hard like fingernails. In the middle is the cortex, which is also made from keratin, but is more flexible as it’s not calcified. The cortex gives the hair its strength and elasticity.
最外层的保护层是角质层,它是一种钙化的角蛋白,使头发形成指甲一样坚硬的质地。中间层为皮质层,同样由角蛋白构成,但是由于没有钙化,所以比外层更加柔韧,而正是这种皮质使头发富有韧性和弹性。
We each have between 100,000 to 150,000 hairs on our heads. Asian hair is the thickest and strongest, measuring between 80 and 100 microns (a millionth of a metre) and is circular in diameter.
每个人约有10到15万根头发。亚洲人的头发是最厚实的,每根有80到100微米(百万分之一米)粗,并且呈圆柱形。
African hair is elliptical, or oval, and is also the thinnest at about 50 microns.
非洲人的头发横断面呈椭圆形,也是最细的,直径约为50毫米。
Caucasian hair falls between the two; measuring between 50 and 80 microns and is slightly elliptical. On average, we lose 50 to 100 hairs every day.
白种人的头发介于这两者之间,每根有50到80微米粗,呈微椭圆形。每个人平均每天掉50到100根头发。
NATURAL DISASTER
自然灾难
You might imagine that leaving your hair to dry naturally, without using a hairdryer, would be best for it. Wrong! This is possibly the most damaging thing you can do.
你可能会觉得不使用吹风机,而是将头发自然晾干可能是最好的选择。错!这可能是最损伤头发的做法。
How? Well, it starts the moment you wet your hair. It changes the molecular structure of the strand straight away. When water is applied to hair, it is absorbed through the hard outer layer of cuticle into the cortex, which then swells up. This means it’s instantly weakened.
为什么呢?从你打湿头发的那一刻起,头发就开始受损了,发丝的分子结构都发生了改变。当头发接触到水时,角质层坚硬的外层便开始将水吸入皮质,头发得到润涨。这就意味着头发在瞬间变得脆弱。
▲摩尔博士说晾干比吹干头发更损害发质
The cuticle acts a bit like roof tiles, with water going in between the gaps. Hair can absorb up to 30 per cent of its own weight in water. The longer it stays wet, the worse things get, as it continues to swell. This is because repeated swelling followed by slow drying of hair causes it to crack, permanently damaging the hair.
角质层就像屋顶的瓦片一样,水分可以从缝隙中流下。头发最多可以吸收自身重量30%的水分。由于头发吸水会膨胀,所以水分停留的时间越长,对头发的损伤就越大,因为头发在连续的膨胀后又慢慢地变干,导致角质层裂开,形成永久性损伤。
You’d be better off drying your locks quickly with heat, rather than going au naturel.
所以,最好是快速将头发烘干,而不是等它自己干。
CHEAP PRODUCTS
廉价产品
We’ve looked at all sorts of shampoos and conditioners, from basic to high end, and despite what you might hope, the price did make a difference.
洗发水和护发素产品种类繁多,从基础款到高端类型,无论你想选哪一种,不同的价格效果确实不同。
Fascinatingly, though, it was the most luxuriously expensive bottles that weren’t worth the price tag. Once you start paying £30 or more, the results plateau.
有意思的是,最奢华的产品却并非物有所值,30镑(约合人民币260元)以上的产品效果都差不多。
But cheap products weren’t much good either. Instead, choose a mid-tier brand. And up to the £30 a bottle mark, the more you can spend, the better.
但便宜货也不见得多好用,所以要选择中档品牌,以每瓶30镑作为价格上限,在这个范围内可以保证一分钱一分货。
TOWEL DRY WITH CARE
用毛巾轻轻擦干
You’re out of the shower and no doubt you’re in a rush to grab your hair dryer. But first, you must towel-dry your hair.
洗完澡你肯定会第一时间抓起吹风机,不过在此之前一定要用毛巾把头发擦干。
To do this, you should scrunch gently to remove excess water. Don’t rub. Rubbing may break weakened hair, and the resulting different lengths of strand cause hair to look frizzy.
